Wave Theory
I’m at Gilgo Beach on Long Island. The early morning sun is shining off the ocean, and as soon as I arrive I see a group of my friends out in the water. I quickly wax my board and paddle out to say hi. We’re laughing, joking, and goofing around. As I catch a wave, I see a friend to my left and another to my right. With a big splash, we jump off at the end of our ride....